Norway Day Four - Bergen

The colourful wooden houses of Bryggen

 

 Fløibanen Funicular

Day four was a day to explore some of the beautiful city of Bergen. We had arrived the night before after picking up the wonderful Rebekah from the airport on the way into town. Our accommodation had no parking so we had to walk awhile to get there. Once there we found ourselves in the heart of the touristy area. Below us was the Fløibanen Funicular that goes up Fløyen Mountain. And we were on the edge of Bryggen which features colourful wooden houses on the old wharf, once a centre of the Hanseatic League's trading empire.

Our accommodation was upstairs with great views. But also little heating and the ceiling matched the sloping roof line. I hit my head so many times trying to do simple things like get into bed and getting stuff out of my bag. It was like being in Kate's Dunedin student flat again. But it was so convenient, so warmth could wait a day or two.

In the morning we set off on the up the Fløibanen Funicular up Fløyen Mountain. At the top we were treated with some amazing views of Bergen, out along the fjords, to the mountains that surround it, and and back up through the city. And some interested goats who were very keen on Rebekah and were willing to posed with her, leaning in for her selfie with them. Me, the walked away! I guess I give off too much of a grumpy old man vibe. There is a lot to do up there, including trails to walk and trolls to be photographed with - they didn't walk away on me.

After descending we walked along Hansakvarteret Bryggen. This is where Bergen was established before 1070 AD, and where the first wharf was built. In 1350 a Kontor of the Hanseatic League was established in Bryggen. This league was a network of traders from what is now Germany who dominated trade in the Baltic and Northern Europe until around 1650. Bryggen become an important centre. The wooden buildings from this period had been damaged by fire several times, but those that were rebuilt were done so using the style and techniques of that time. The area is a reminder of the importance of the Hanseatic League’s trading empire and of the ancient wooden urban structure once common in Northern Europe. It was listed as a World Heritage Site in 1979.

At the end of Bryggen is the Bergenhus Fortress, which includes the Rosenkrantz Tower and Håkon’s Hall. Some parts of these buildings date back to the 1240’s and the complex was the royal residence of the Norwegian Kings while Bergen was the Capital. The Hall was said to have been first built around 1260 during the reign of King Håkon Håkonsson (1217–1263). The Rosenkrantz Tower dates initially from the reign of King Magnus the Lawmender in the 1270s as part of the royal castle. In 1380 Norway was in a personal union with Denmark and the capital was not longer in Norway. The Bergenhus Fortress acts as a reminder of Norway’s early independence, and the long centuries as part of Denmark. Rosenkrantz was as Danish governor who transformed the tower from Royal residence to a more military use. A fun place to visit if you love history, which I do, and like great views back along Bryggen to Bergen.

We then walked back to the Fish Market. This has existed since around 1200 and was a very important centre of trade between fisherman - some of whom would row to the quay and sell their catch from their boats before rowing home,  farmers, and inhabitants of Bergen. In 2012 an indoor market - Fish Market - Mathallen opened with permanent shops and indoor restaurants. The outdoor market had long closed for winter, but we were able to enjoy the indoor market with all its sights and seafood options, alive, dead and dried. And we were able to enjoy some Norwegian seafood dishes.

Then we set off inland to enjoy Lille Lungegårdsvannet, a small urban lake in the centre of Bergen. We walked around the lake and then went to Bergen Kunsthall - a centre for contemporary art with exhibitions, concerts and events. They had a couple of exhibitions including one called Glowing Phalanges by Sudanese-Norwegian artist Ahmed Umar, part of his ongoing project Forbidden Prayers. Each work was  held by an acrylic cast of the artist’s right hand, suggesting the use as a prayer bead. Bonnie and I spent some time enjoying that.

Bergen is known for its galleries and museums. We also spent time at the Edvard Munch exhibition at one of the Kobe galleries. Amazing.

Then we ambled back to where we were staying. I followed my nose, found the Musikkpaviljongen (Music Pavillion). I eventually found myself behind the Fish market on the other side of the harbour from Bryggen. It was a great little wander and I got some nice photos out of it.

That night Bonnie, Rebekah and I went to Bryggeloftet Restaurant - the oldest restaurant in Bergen, operated by the current owners family since early 1910. We had a great night out enjoying a wonderfully uniquely Norwegian dining experience, steeped in 100 years of heritage and tradition. Amazing food – I had grilled fillet of reindeer, wonderful service – everything came out on trolleys and was served from there, finished with pavlova on cloudberries!!! Which they knew came from New Zealand.

All in all, it was a wonderful day. Thanks again Kenneth for your care in putting this together.

You can find all my photos from my Facebook post here. 

Pavlova on Cloudberries