Day three started super early. We were on the bus with our bags packed and teeth cleaned before we were normally at breakfast. With Katie's carefully caring for us, Rodney's wonderful leadership and insights, and Andrew's reflections, we departed for three days in the heat of the Galilee. This was where we started to really appreciate his time keeping. Not too short, but long enough at each place. And it was hot. Getting near 40℃. The day came with so many memories of when I was here in 2005, and it was special to be able to do with Bonnie this time.
After an essential coffee stop, we arrived at Capernaum. The sign said "No short clothing" and they meant it. One of our party thought she was covered enough and had to find more clothing in the bus to be let in. Capernaum is special in the Jesus story. He spent a lot time here - it was his home. And the disciples came back here - Peter's mother in law's house is here - now an archeological site with a Franciscan church cantilevered over it. Andrew led us in a reflection on call using Jesus initial invitation to "come follow me", which echoed my own question of "who am I and what is mine to do?" We then had time to be in this place, and to explore as tourists and pilgrims. This little town which played such a vital role in Jesus teaching. Down the coast is Tiberias, on the hill above it the Mount of the Beatitudes, and along the coast is Tabgha and the church of the multiplication. Truly wahi tapu. There is a reproduction of the mosaic found in the Byzantine church which once sat over "the house" on the entrance way. It's central motif is a peacock, a very old symbol of the resurrection. We would encounter it again.
The current Benedictine church is built on the site using the dimensions of a 5th century Byzantine church, itself built over an earlier 3rd century Byzantine church. The floor is a wonderful mosaic which is being restored. Tradition says that this church sits on the site of Jesus feeding the multitude (5000 men and others) in Matthew 14 with five loaves of bread and two fish. The altar is built over the rock it is said Jesus laid the food on to bless. In font of the altar is a beautiful mosaic of 2 fish and 4 loaves. Those who gather here for Eucharist are invited into the story, the fifth loaf is that being blessed and distributed. As I think back this place has had a profound effect on my Eucharistic theology. It feels like we are too quick to spiritualise Eucharist and limit it to the last supper. I wonder if we miss what Jesus was doing in this last meal, offering a radical lesson in leadership and being community and reminding his friends and disciples of all the meals he ate with those the religious hierarchy had declared beyond the boundaries of the social, political and religious community, including the feeding of the multitude among the poor and sick. Tabgha reminds us that like them we are invited to join in Christ’s ongoing mission and ministry of removing those boundaries and declaring all to be “God’s beloved”, not as individuals but as God’s community of hope. That mosaic changed how I see the Eucharist, and my rule of life.
You are also reminded of the heat of relationships in this part of the world. In June 2015 extremist Jewish settler youths attacked the church compound, burning down part of it and covering it with anti-Christian graffiti. A week later we followed a teenage ultra orthodox Jew walking through the old city (Jerusalem) spitting on the doorstep of every christian establishment. We would see more evidence of this heat in Nazareth.
Then back on the bus at the allotted time and up to the Mount of the Beatitudes for lunch and then some time to wonder around the church. this octagonal church is another Antonio Barluzzi church, like the church of the visitation. It overlooks both Tagbha and Capernaum. The views are stunning. It's eight sides remind us of the eight beatitudes.
We then set off back down the hill and went for a boat trip on the Galilee. It was beautiful, but o so hot in the sun. A nice way to finish and long and hot day.
We then drove up into the hills to the once Christian city of Nazareth. We had two nights with the Sisters of Nazareth. I will write more about them next time. Their guest house is right by both the Anglican Church and the Catholic Church of the Annunciation. After dinner most of us walked to short walk down to this amazing church. I had the most extraordinary experience here. In 2005 I stayed at St. Margaret's College up the hill for several nights. I had time to go to the Church of the Annunciation each day and enjoy it. It is built over what is traditionally accepted to be Mary's parent's house in Nazareth (according to the Lukan version of the story). There has been a church here for a
long time. In the 1960's this new and astounding two level church was built around and over the site of the older church and the grotto. You look down on the grotto from above. While we were there where was a service of adoration to the living bread led by young adults. It was a quiet and restoring way to finish this big day. And mostly in temperatures of the high 30s. Beautiful! So many memories of being here in 2005, with moments of being drawn back in. You can find my Facebook photos here
Here is a wee poetic reflection I wrote here
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