Footsteps of Jesus Pilgrimage Day 6 - al-Haram al-Sharif (“The Noble Sanctuary”)

Day six was a huge day. We left early, all dressed to the utmost modesty, especially the women, for al-Haram al-Sharif or Temple Mount. This is such a deeply contested and ancient holy place. For Jews it is the site for the two temples, and there are those who long to rebuild it on that site. For Muslims it is as the site where the Prophet Muhammad ascended to heaven on his famed Night Journey. The site is so important to Islam that it is one of the only two mosques mentioned in the Quran (the other being the al-Haram Mosque in Mecca). The Quran also considers al-Aqsa Mosque to be the first qibla, or point of direction for praying, and the Prophet and Muslims prayed toward it before it was changed to Mecca; as such, al-Aqsa is also known as the Qibla Mosque. For more read here. The term “al-Haram al-Sharif" (Arabic for “The Noble Sanctuary”) is used interchangeably with the terms “al-Aqsa Mosque compound” or, simply, “al-Aqsa.” The elevated compound, which includes al-Aqsa Mosque and Qubbat al-Sakhra (Dome of the Rock), was built between 685 and 809 CE.

We went early so that we could be back at the cathedral for eucharist. But our guide had not noted that time change, and he arrived an hour after we did, so no Eucharist for us. I was not paying attention to our route and just assumed that we were going through the Damascus Gate. But we went in to the Old City through the Herod Gate, which led straight down to our entrance. I was so confused when we came out. I couldn’t work out what had happened until the next day when we went back, but that is another topic.

I have been to al-Haram al-Sharif once before and it was a very memorable experience. That time I entered as a tourist through the Mughrabi Gate near the Western Wall, the one gate tourists are allowed in, when they are allowed. All entrances are controlled by Israeli security forces. All but one are for Muslims only, and even then, are tightly controlled. Palestinian Muslim men under the age of 55 are often prevented from entering. We were able to go because of the close relationship St George’s College has built with the Jerusalem Islamic Waqf who is responsible for the day-to-day operations of the compound. The Waqf is a Muslim trust funded by Jordan. And because of that relationship we entered one of the Muslim only gates on the other side of the compound near El-Ghazali Square. What a privilege.

After introductions our guide took us through and into the compound. It is a breathtakingly beautiful and simple place. The whole compound is seen as a mosque and as noted above is also referred to as the Al Aqsa Mosque. On holy days it will be filled with people for prayers. And we at once met the source of so much frustration for the custodians and for the Muslim community. Our guide greeted another person working there wheeling a trolley, trying to get pipes in to fix the air conditioning. Nothing happening on this site without Israeli permission, and often that permission is not forthcoming. I asked why the arches had numbers on them and was told that was from an earlier Eid and had been put up so that there were points for people looking for lost people to go to find them. But Israeli authorities had not given permission for them to come down. 

We met that again at the mosques. The custodians have been working with EU experts and funders to repair and restore both mosques. But we were told the work is not complete because the work visas of those overseeing the work were not renewed, and many of the Palestinian workers who had been doing the work were suddenly arrested when they came to continue the work. So much pettiness, so much frustration!

And then one of the most appalling things was being confronted by a group of batshit crazy ultranationalist Zionist settlers who had forced their way onto the compound and, under the supervision of Israeli security forces, were walking around chanting, singing, and praying loudly, hoping to create mayhem and trouble and to provoke a response. Their ultimate goal is the demolition of the mosques and the rebuilding of the temple where Dome of the Rock stands. The Chief Rabbis have warning Jewish visitors against entering the Temple Mount stating “According to Torah law, it is forbidden for any person to enter the Temple Mount because of its holiness”. Christian and Jewish visitors are allowed to visit as tourists only and are prohibited from taking holy objects and the saying of prayer. The group we met, and more of those groups entered over the coming days, are determined to change that, in defiance of the Chief Rabbi. One of their group is in Netanyahu’s cabinet. These incursions were named by Hamas as one of the provocations for their lethal assault on 7 October 2023 shortly after we left. In my journal I wrote at the time, “The divisions are so deep. This history on both sides is so intractable. And there seems to be no desire for peace. Just violence it would seem.” We came across the evidence of that violence at the Al Aqsa Mosque with broken windows and bullet holes in the walls from previous violent encounters between Palestinians and the IDF.

And then we entered the Dome of the Rock – not something we would normally be able to do now. It is a wonderful place, so beautiful inside. It is one of the earliest Islamic buildings built, although it is uncertain why it was built. Maybe it was simply a statement of the superiority of Islam to the older religions of Judaism and Christianity (they had just defeated the Christian Byzantines and this rivalled and exceeded Holy Sepulchre). It speaks of the transcendence of Allah/God. It is soaked with peace. There were women reading and discussing the Quran and other holy texts,

immersing themselves in their faith. And at the centre is the “rock”. For Jews the foundation stone of creation and the location of the Holy of Holies. For Muslims the rock is where Abraham was prepared to sacrifice his son Ismael. It is so much bigger than I had imagined. For some reason I had not looked it up with google. We went down under the rock to the Well of Souls, a small cave/room under the rock. It is hard to describe how beautiful this place is, the wonder of its intricate mosaics, and the sense of peace and joy it invoked. It was a privilege to be able to enter it.

We then were taken to the Al Aqsa Mosque. A more tradition mosque in design. It was here the Knights Templars were housed during the Christian Crusades, and it had been a church during that time. It is still a focal point of violence.

After a little time to just be in this place, we left and were given the afternoon off. Some of our group went back to St George’s for lunch. Like others, Bonnie and I stayed in the Old city and explored. Rodney told us about the Café in the Austrian Pilgrim Hospice which serves traditional Austrian coffee, cakes, beer, and strudel, and is a little celebration of their imperial past. One room is roped off that had been visited by members of the imperial family. It has a lovely garden to sit in and offers great views of the Old City. It is a delightful oasis in the midst of all the heat, noise, and tension.

We then set off up the Via Dolorosa to Holy Sepulchre. We went down into the St Queen Helena’s Cistern, controlled by the Coptic Orthodox Patriarchate. It dates from before the building of Holy Sepulchre and the water was used during its building. It has glorious acoustics. I let Bonnie do the singing this time.

Then we went down through the Ethiopian Chapel and into Holy Sepulchre – maybe the holiest place in Christendom. Here it is believed that Jesus was crucified in an old quarry, and was buried in a nearby tomb, from which he rose. The first church was built by Constantine I, and that church was badly damaged by earthquake and war. The current church goes back to the time of the crusaders. The present church dates mainly from 1810. It is opulent, crass, lavish, badly damaged, and beautiful. It can be underwhelming. It can be overwhelming. It takes time. I was glad to be back and to give Bonnie time to engage with it. Long trousers and modesty are the order of the day. Photos are discouraged/prohibited. But I snuck a few of them. This is not a tourist place but a place of pilgrimage. You can find more photos here.

Then Bonnie and I wandered up towards Jaffa Gate. We walked down through the Armenian Quarter which Zionists are trying to push their claim for. Jewish graffiti was being used to intimidate and provoke and mark territory, a bit like a dog peeing. We had some great surprise encounters as we wandered. A young Bedouin man showed us how to get up on the roof tops – with pathways between houses and buildings which allow people (Jews) to avoid the streets below. It provides wonderful views of the Old City, and nice places for people to sit. When we came back down, he offered to show us his shop. We had a great talk about what it was like being Bedouin – he is now an urbanite and could not live at “home” anymore. And we bought a few lovely gifts.

We also found the Syrian Patriarchate Convent of St Mark and chapel of the Upper Room. In their tradition the last supper was held in Mark’s house. It is a beautiful little chapel. The priest of the Syrian Jacobite Indian Orthodox Church which meets at Gate Pā has an ambition to preside at the eucharist in this holy place. It is not the same place as everyone else holds as the traditional place, but much much nicer.

And in our wanderings, we decided we needed some more food and accepted an invitation to eat in one of the little restaurants as we walked back down to the Damascus Gate. Such lovely food.

Bonnie is not known for her sense of direction. In Nazareth, after we came down the hill from St Margarets, I suggested she choose the way home. She chose to go back up the hill. I suggested as alternative – any of the alternative routes basically down the hill. On this day on our wanderings, we came to one of the more major roads. It is a little rabbit warreny in the Old city. But it is on a hill, so a basic way of working out where to go is do I go up or down. I again let her choose the route. She again chose up the hill. Whichever way we went we could have found our way back to the right gate, so I was willing to go up. But a shop owner heard our conversation and quickly pointed out which was the right way – down the hill. It was quicker, but I think exploring up would have been fun too.

It was a glorious day in so many respects. Al-Haram al-Sharif is a life giving place. And it was so lovely to have the time to explore and just be in this place with not much agenda and to be open to what we found. It was a highlight of our time here. And it is enlightening for someone from the West to encounter all these ancient churches that predate our little protestant churches, whose history and liturgy is so rich, all holding claim to their little piece of the holy sites and the story that unites us.

You can find more photos here.