Arthur was Cornish?

Who knew Arthur of round table fame was Cornish by birth? Not me! I thought he was Welsh. But Cornish - Welsh - it seems they are very much related. Anyhow, After my big day on the moor with standing stones and barrows, I went to Tintagel - pretty old habitation, home of some of the Cornish Kings, and mythological birth place of Arthur Pendragon, King of the Britons. The love story of King Mark, and Tristan and Iseult are also linked with Tintagel and are thought to have played a part in how Richard laid out his castle. If you are into history, mythology, and just cool stuff this is a great place to go, and indeed many a tourist where there the day I was there.

The morning was a well planned excursion. I could use my English Heritage membership both for entry and for the car-parking. Awesome!. I picked the time to arrive when their website said they were not too busy. I knew how long it would take to drive there and so left right on time. It was a windy and slightly wet day - a great day fro shorts - who wants wet longs on a day like this.

Tintagel Castle on Cornwall's rugged north coast is, as I have said, inextricably linked with the legend of King Arthur. The promotional stuff says that for centuries this dramatic castle and coastline has fired the imaginations of writers, artists, and even the brother of a king. 

There are late Roman remains, and it was then a centre of one of the post Roman Cornish kingdoms, and an important part of the trade routes between Cornwall, Europe and Middle East. Many of the ruins on the island are from this time. And then in the 1200's, Richard, son of King John, and Henry III's brother and , begins building himself a castle. It is thought he chose here to use both the history of Cornish kings and the legend of Arthur to give legitimacy to his title of Earl of Cornwall. He was an immensely powerful and wealthy man. His castle is what is around either side of the bridge. Erosion and legend have played a big part in the story over the last 500 years or so.

It was a wonderful couple of hours. I again bought the guide book and followed the route. I read stuff and just had a great time. Again I had the sense of walking in lives and loves long lost to history, long lost to mythology.  All the swirl of old and newer version of both Arthur and Tristan and Iseult wrapping together and shaping how people approach this place. In the midst the story of so many peoples lives until the land bridge gave way to erosion and it was cut off, and the last lonely priest eventually left.

You can find my pictures in my Facebook past here 

After I supported English Heritage by having a Cornish cream tea (with coffee), fruit scone with local clotted cream and strawberry jam, I set off up Barras Nose to see what I could see. the plan was for a quick look see and then return to Newquay for a look around there. That was the plan. But once I had taken my photos I saw in the guide book there was a coastal walk, so I thought I would do some of that. And then a bit more. 

That coastline was beautiful. I kept walking because it drew me on. I might have been a tourist in the morning, with all my well timed plans, but now I walked as a pilgrim, entering this land and all the wind and rain and rugged coast gifted me. I was pulverized and refreshed all at one. At the point where I intended to loop back around I met some keen people who said I should go on the Rocky Valley.

And if my car had been parked there all would have been good. But it was not. So I began the long walk to the road and then to the village. I stopped for a reviving Cornish pastie and coffee, and walk the final kilometers back. i staggered into a pub needing the wharepaku, and obediently bought a half pint of delicious local beer, just to be a customer. and then returned to Newquay. It was a huge day. My body would object in the days to come. But was a day.  I feel tired just thinking about it.

My Facebook post of the pilgrim part of the day can be found here.