Cruisey Day

I have had another cruisey day. I slept well till 5am when
the Mullahs woke me with prayer.

I at last got in to the compound of the Dome of the Rock
today. Both the mosques are now permantly closed to all non
muslims, which is a bit sad. But it was still an awesome
expereince to be standing where the temple once stood, and
to be standing on such a holy site for muslims.

I also went back to Holy Sepulchre, with a bit more
knowledge, and a bit less tired, and was able to enter into
the whole experience a bit more. As I was sitting and
praying outside the Dome of the Rock, I was reflecting
though how even in the Christian holy sites, I feel like an
outsider. I am not entering the experience as others are. To
see people enter the tomb on their knees in prayer,
venerating the cross, walking the via delarosa (I don't even
know if that is spelt right) humbles me, and challenges my
lack of veneration. I guess part of it is living in a place
that has no holy sites as such. And part of it is me, But I
find it really interesting. I felt more in New York for
goodness sake!! What is wrong with me.

The Old City is growing on me. I was overwhelmed by the
narrowness, the business, the strangness of it all
yesterday. It really was clautrophobic! Today I felt a lot
more comfortable, and even wondered if there were less
people. What is more, I can find my way around now without
looking at a map. Where is the fun in that. How can you get
lost when that happens.

It is an amazing place. Full of rubbish, everything squashed
into these narrow alleyways. People and carts jossling you
out of the way. Vendors inviting you in, no pressure to buy
of course (what ever) People offering to quide you, then
asking for money. Some of the shops are small and dark.
There are old bakeries, butchers with the meat hanging in
the street. Coffee makers brewing their coffee over kerosine
stoves (what would our expresso devotees say about that!!)
and in amongst it all some very modern shops. When you look
down on this from above, you can't see any of it. It is all
closed over. It rained today, but I didn't feel the rain, I
just noticed the road was getting wet and slippery. It all
seems so much more human and intimate than our roomy malls
and hi-tech coffee.

That will do for today.